Where In The World Is Cailie Kafura?: Of Greed and Men

Sawadeekah!

Thailand brings to mind many images:

~Elephants
~Hangover 2
~Jungles
~Exotic Wildlife
~Ladyboys

In my mere 3 weeks of being in Thailand, a whirlwind of sights and sounds has left me in a juxtaposed state regarding my feelings for this confused country.

Allow me to begin on the 4th of March, when I arrived in Thailand.

The Wildlife Friends Foundation of Thailand began with a Dutch man named Edwin and his determination to rescue animals from the illegal wildlife trade that runs rampant in Thailand.
This sanctuary creates homes for animals from all kingdoms and genres: monkeys, otters, bears, crocodiles, goats, dogs, warthogs, lorises, civets, elephants, and one tiger.

All of these animals would be living wonderfully free lives, if it weren't for the greed that drives those who sell them as pets or lure tourists with their tricks.

This sanctuary would not even need to exist if it weren't for the abusive acts of others.

However, my naive-minded self arrived with wide eyes to the sanctuary, enticed by the opportunity to work so closely with such amazing animals of which some I never laid eyes on before!

On the evening of one of my first nights at the sanctuary, all of the volunteers were shown a video about the true treatment of elephants behind the scenes of circuses, movies, street begging, and the use of elephants for logging.

To say I cried would be a strong understatement. The hatred and empathy that was born after watching these horrific images of these gentle giants being beaten until their fear became submissiveness made me sick.

We also learned the heartbreaking and repulsive truth behind Mahouts, who we are all told are the elephants "companion for life." We all believed it, until we learned of the Phajaan.
Another sickening story to discard the brainwashing of Mahouts being the "good guys."
The Phajaan begins when the mother elephant is poached and the baby is taken for potential use as a trick-performing elephant (so the owner gets money from tourists); this baby elephant is then beaten to a near-death state to "kill the spirit" of the elephant, whose fear of abuse makes it submissive to humans.

These elephants with killed spirits are then used to perform tricks for tourists on the streets of Bangkok, perform in movies or circuses, haul massive logs for years, or give rides to tourists.

All 6 of the elephants at this sanctuary were rescued from one of these scenarios.

Current elephant citizens of the Wildlife Friends Foundation:
*June (rescued from an elephant camp; 75 years old!)
*Bua Ngun ("Silver Lotus;" rescued from logging, now suffers form chronic abscesses; 65 years old)
*See Puak (Former Movie Star)
*Pai Lin (Ride for Tourists, now has back problems)
*Khan Kluey (Aggressive male elephant, spirit only half broken, taught to do tricks for food; 6 years old)
*Somboon ("Perfect;" Tricks for tourists in Bangkok, hit by car, walks with limp now)

My daily schedule began at 6:30am with a designated elephant. Machete-ing banana trees for breakfast, cleaning yesterday's supper, and a wee little cuddle was just the beginning of my day's work with the ellies.

By 9am, the volunteers would hop on a pick-up truck 2.0 and go to a plantation of banana trees where we machete them down for 2 hours in the relentless sunshine. Following the hardy harvest of champions, we leaped in the river and returned to the sanctuary with elephant meals in tow.

Feeding time commences at 2 o'clock in the afternoon with another 3-5 banana trees, cleaning, and hiding fruit for enrichment activities. By 4 o'clock, we hit them up again for another batch of trees and love.
Somewhere in-between feedings, a shower and scrub combo is given to each elephant, and some of the elephants are walked to the lake where the volunteers and elephant jump in together for a jolly good bath session.

I worked with the other wildlife for a day, and thus fed a range of monkeys, birds, a horse, and an otter.
I even had the privilege to meet the tiger named Meow who Edwin rescued 12 years ago from a man using the cub as a tourist attraction outside of a gas station. Although saved, Meow's damage was already done. The chain kept around its neck as an infant caused his spine to grow irregularly, causing him to progressively become paralyzed. His life now consists of laying on a mattress all day, moving only for his physical therapy in the lake at 10 and 2. Meow needs to be watered and turned every two hours, and the dedicated staff and volunteers pitch in with unconditional love. Watering Meow at 3am became my task, and I accepted it gratefully. Strolling through the sanctuary at this hour and seeing the elephants in the moonlight on my way to Meow was a wonder indeed...

I turn on the light to unveil the magical creature before me, panting in the Thai night heat.
His body limp, his eyes fierce with the crave of freedom. My body limp, my eyes pity, and my heart burns with rage for greed has stolen yet another undeserving life.
I stroke his paw and forehead, still stunned by the surreal reality of embracing a tiger.
A water bottle with a nozzle attached was Meow's only source for water. I poured it in his mouth as he lapped it, and when he wanted me to stop, he would gesture by lifting his head away from the bottle.

*Tyger, Tyger, Burning Bright; Greed Took You From the Forests of the Night*

There are 300 animals at this sanctuary, but just a mere 2 weeks before I arrived there were 400. Here is another heartbreaking example of the corrupt and greed-driven government in Thailand:

Edwin, the founder of WFFT, spoke out about the atrocious elephant poaching in the national park. Seeking revenge, the Department of National Parks came and asked for the paperwork for all of his 400 animals and gave him 3 hours to do so. An impossible task, the best effort was given to complete the paperwork, but 100 animals did not get done in time. The DNP used this opportunity to classify these animals as "illegally kept" and over the course of 2 weeks, confiscated them all. Volunteers looked on helplessly as men with nets incompetently captured monkeys, birds, bears, and an otter form their safe havens in the sanctuary. Monkeys that were rescued from the illegal wildlife trade were being taken right back to where they began-- and no one could stop them.

The Wildlife Friends Foundation has experienced seemingly insurmountable heartbreaks and challenges, yet somehow finds the strength to carry on and continue fighting, because if they don't fight for these animals lives....

WHO
WILL?

This was my wonderful and eye-opening two week experience working with the elephants and beyond of Thailand. I was moved in many ways...none of which I was expecting, but all of which I was grateful for.

I apologize for the depressing nature of this story, but it needs to be heard. Life, although otherwise advertised, is not always a beach. My optimistic outlook on life hasn't changed, but it certainly has been dampened and discouraged. Within that discouragement, I have also rediscovered my passion for saving animals and my heart now burns somethin' FIERCE to make a difference!

Thank you for your divided or undivided attention :)

Carry On My Wayward Sun,

Cailie Kafura!