Where In The World Is Cailie Kafura?: March 2012

Sawadeekah!

Thailand brings to mind many images:

~Elephants
~Hangover 2
~Jungles
~Exotic Wildlife
~Ladyboys

In my mere 3 weeks of being in Thailand, a whirlwind of sights and sounds has left me in a juxtaposed state regarding my feelings for this confused country.

Allow me to begin on the 4th of March, when I arrived in Thailand.

The Wildlife Friends Foundation of Thailand began with a Dutch man named Edwin and his determination to rescue animals from the illegal wildlife trade that runs rampant in Thailand.
This sanctuary creates homes for animals from all kingdoms and genres: monkeys, otters, bears, crocodiles, goats, dogs, warthogs, lorises, civets, elephants, and one tiger.

All of these animals would be living wonderfully free lives, if it weren't for the greed that drives those who sell them as pets or lure tourists with their tricks.

This sanctuary would not even need to exist if it weren't for the abusive acts of others.

However, my naive-minded self arrived with wide eyes to the sanctuary, enticed by the opportunity to work so closely with such amazing animals of which some I never laid eyes on before!

On the evening of one of my first nights at the sanctuary, all of the volunteers were shown a video about the true treatment of elephants behind the scenes of circuses, movies, street begging, and the use of elephants for logging.

To say I cried would be a strong understatement. The hatred and empathy that was born after watching these horrific images of these gentle giants being beaten until their fear became submissiveness made me sick.

We also learned the heartbreaking and repulsive truth behind Mahouts, who we are all told are the elephants "companion for life." We all believed it, until we learned of the Phajaan.
Another sickening story to discard the brainwashing of Mahouts being the "good guys."
The Phajaan begins when the mother elephant is poached and the baby is taken for potential use as a trick-performing elephant (so the owner gets money from tourists); this baby elephant is then beaten to a near-death state to "kill the spirit" of the elephant, whose fear of abuse makes it submissive to humans.

These elephants with killed spirits are then used to perform tricks for tourists on the streets of Bangkok, perform in movies or circuses, haul massive logs for years, or give rides to tourists.

All 6 of the elephants at this sanctuary were rescued from one of these scenarios.

Current elephant citizens of the Wildlife Friends Foundation:
*June (rescued from an elephant camp; 75 years old!)
*Bua Ngun ("Silver Lotus;" rescued from logging, now suffers form chronic abscesses; 65 years old)
*See Puak (Former Movie Star)
*Pai Lin (Ride for Tourists, now has back problems)
*Khan Kluey (Aggressive male elephant, spirit only half broken, taught to do tricks for food; 6 years old)
*Somboon ("Perfect;" Tricks for tourists in Bangkok, hit by car, walks with limp now)

My daily schedule began at 6:30am with a designated elephant. Machete-ing banana trees for breakfast, cleaning yesterday's supper, and a wee little cuddle was just the beginning of my day's work with the ellies.

By 9am, the volunteers would hop on a pick-up truck 2.0 and go to a plantation of banana trees where we machete them down for 2 hours in the relentless sunshine. Following the hardy harvest of champions, we leaped in the river and returned to the sanctuary with elephant meals in tow.

Feeding time commences at 2 o'clock in the afternoon with another 3-5 banana trees, cleaning, and hiding fruit for enrichment activities. By 4 o'clock, we hit them up again for another batch of trees and love.
Somewhere in-between feedings, a shower and scrub combo is given to each elephant, and some of the elephants are walked to the lake where the volunteers and elephant jump in together for a jolly good bath session.

I worked with the other wildlife for a day, and thus fed a range of monkeys, birds, a horse, and an otter.
I even had the privilege to meet the tiger named Meow who Edwin rescued 12 years ago from a man using the cub as a tourist attraction outside of a gas station. Although saved, Meow's damage was already done. The chain kept around its neck as an infant caused his spine to grow irregularly, causing him to progressively become paralyzed. His life now consists of laying on a mattress all day, moving only for his physical therapy in the lake at 10 and 2. Meow needs to be watered and turned every two hours, and the dedicated staff and volunteers pitch in with unconditional love. Watering Meow at 3am became my task, and I accepted it gratefully. Strolling through the sanctuary at this hour and seeing the elephants in the moonlight on my way to Meow was a wonder indeed...

I turn on the light to unveil the magical creature before me, panting in the Thai night heat.
His body limp, his eyes fierce with the crave of freedom. My body limp, my eyes pity, and my heart burns with rage for greed has stolen yet another undeserving life.
I stroke his paw and forehead, still stunned by the surreal reality of embracing a tiger.
A water bottle with a nozzle attached was Meow's only source for water. I poured it in his mouth as he lapped it, and when he wanted me to stop, he would gesture by lifting his head away from the bottle.

*Tyger, Tyger, Burning Bright; Greed Took You From the Forests of the Night*

There are 300 animals at this sanctuary, but just a mere 2 weeks before I arrived there were 400. Here is another heartbreaking example of the corrupt and greed-driven government in Thailand:

Edwin, the founder of WFFT, spoke out about the atrocious elephant poaching in the national park. Seeking revenge, the Department of National Parks came and asked for the paperwork for all of his 400 animals and gave him 3 hours to do so. An impossible task, the best effort was given to complete the paperwork, but 100 animals did not get done in time. The DNP used this opportunity to classify these animals as "illegally kept" and over the course of 2 weeks, confiscated them all. Volunteers looked on helplessly as men with nets incompetently captured monkeys, birds, bears, and an otter form their safe havens in the sanctuary. Monkeys that were rescued from the illegal wildlife trade were being taken right back to where they began-- and no one could stop them.

The Wildlife Friends Foundation has experienced seemingly insurmountable heartbreaks and challenges, yet somehow finds the strength to carry on and continue fighting, because if they don't fight for these animals lives....

WHO
WILL?

This was my wonderful and eye-opening two week experience working with the elephants and beyond of Thailand. I was moved in many ways...none of which I was expecting, but all of which I was grateful for.

I apologize for the depressing nature of this story, but it needs to be heard. Life, although otherwise advertised, is not always a beach. My optimistic outlook on life hasn't changed, but it certainly has been dampened and discouraged. Within that discouragement, I have also rediscovered my passion for saving animals and my heart now burns somethin' FIERCE to make a difference!

Thank you for your divided or undivided attention :)

Carry On My Wayward Sun,

Cailie Kafura!

Meow, my catalyst.

Harvest of Champions!

See Puak Scrub.

Physical Therapy with Meow...dedication and patience.

Elephant Safari in the National Park... he charged our truck!!!

Land of Thai!

Imagine the captions you could put to this face.... this is a loris, by the way...and yes, he is real :)

See Puak Sunset.

9-month-old elephant used as a tourist attraction of money....the scars from the beating is in plain view.

Fruit in a sack to simulate foraging.

Khan Kluey finding fruits in his lake!

Best Macaque ever.

Bua's Chronic Abcesses...they will never heal, but the vet continues to clean them twice a day.

Love me some elephants!

The day I arrived on this island, I knew that 2 months wouldn't be long enough.

My 2 months came to an end on March 4th...thus, allow me to whisk you back through my final days.

I shall keep it short and sweet to hold the attention of those who are unable to hold it themselves :)

*Seahorse Scandal: One of the volunteers discovered a jar of 38 dried seahorses in one of the village shops on our island. This was shattering to all of us, not only because we perform seahorse surveys each day, but because the village respected the fact that seahorses are rare and that the project was established around this breeding ground. There is always one that ruins it for the many. However, one cannot judge either, for desperate times call for desperate measures; this jar would reap 100 dollars--an extraordinary amount for Cambodian standards when considering you can buy a full meal for 50 cents.

*Game Day: All of the volunteers and the village children gathered on the beach for a dandy dash of water fights, tug of war, and some flour extravaganza.
The kids pelted the volunteers with unbreakable water balloons, wet shirts, and rags....followed by an impossible round of tug of war. A game involving flour and shoving your face in it quickly backfired into a flour fight. Such a simple life these kids lead, but a happy one indeed.

*Goodbye Koh Rong Samloem: A surreal departure... saying goodbye to the people that I felt as though I knew for a lifetime. I took my final dive in stride-- a seahorse survey. It was the best dive yet.
Awaiting my arrival was the most wonderful seahorse that my eyes ever laid on :)
He was a beautiful, "tall," mystical creature that moved with the greatest of ease through the world he called home.
I was so grateful to have borrowed my friends underwater camera for this dive. I captured its every delicate stroke from its one dorsal fin. Fearless of my presence, I was able to cup it in the envelope of my hand. Embracing me, it wrapped itself around my hand. I could not have been happier. (See pictures below!)

*Hello Siem Reap: Here in this small town lies the impressive temples of Angkor Wat, Ta Prohm(Tomb Raider temple!), and Bayon.
After a 12 hour bus ride through the night, Siem Reap came alive. On our first day we went to a floating village and flooded forest. Makeshift shacks were held above the water on stilts: an exceptional gravity-defying work of art. Small boats paddled by elderly and toothless Cambodian women took us through the flooded forest...felt straight out of a movie!
Day Two consisted of all 4 temples, beginning at 5am to see the sunrise at Angkor Wat. Angkor's size impressed me, especially when I thought of the work that must have gone into the carvings, architecture, and height of the edifice. Adorned with orange-robed monks, the temple's massive expanse went hand in hand with the monks' peaceful presence.
Ta Prohm was second on the list. This was an ancient monastery where Tomb Raider was filmed. Over time, the jungle trees grew their way into the walls and crannies of Ta Prohm. I found this temple to be my favorite...see the pictures, and you'll agree.
Bayon followed, which is the temple of many faces. Faces surround you as you climb your way through the layers of this temple. Incredible to think of the limited tools used to create this masterpiece.
Angkor Thom was full of mini temples less visited, which gave it a feel of discovery.
Day Three we indulged in a Khmer cooking class. Although I am a female, the kitchen is still foreign territory to me. We were handed a menu and were told to pick a starter and main dish, which we were then taught how to make! Spring rolls and chicken with amok was my meal-to-be. It was such an interesting process, making everything from scratch. In the end, we made so much food that we needed doggie bags for our creations.

*Hello Phnom Penh, again: Back to the city where it all began... we visited the Royal Palace and the Museum of the Killing Fields. The museum was moving to tears, as the pictures of every victim adorned the wall and the torture rooms still had blood stains, making this horrific event all too real.

On one of my last nights, we stayed up all night dancing in the local club and having a grand old time, which led us to 6am in the morning where we found a Chinese aerobics group exercising in front of the Royal Palace. This was an opportunity we couldn't resist! Fist-pumping into the air to "Hotel California" and we are the only white people around. We took a breather to watch the sun rise over the Mekong and then went back to bed, seeing as we never went in the first place. :)

Leaving Cambodia seemed so strange as I felt as though I just arrived and I left all of my friends on the island...yet, my next adventure was scrubbing and cuddling elephants!

Ta Ta For Now, Cambodia..Herro Thailand!